Your reasons for wanting or needing a fence are determined by a variety of factors. You may want more privacy, a shelter from the wind, or to keep other pets out while keeping your own in. You might also want to add a nice finishing touch to your home.
Before you begin building your timber fence, it goes without saying that you should be completely aware of what is yours. If you are unsure about the extent of your boundaries, consult your local council; you may require the services of a licenced surveyor. Don't rely on the title's accuracy, as previous owners may have robbed or borrowed a little here and there over the years. This also works both ways, and you may discover that a neighbour has previously snipped a piece of yours. Now is a good time to re-establish the proper boundary lines.
Your first task is to mark the fence line. Drive a stake into the ground at one end of the post and run a string line the entire length of the boundary; stake out the opposite end post. Then, at equal distances, measure and stake all intermediate posts. For a fence up to 1.8m high, posts are typically spaced 2m to 2.7m apart.
Set both corner posts first to ensure that all of the posts are in a straight line. Make 600mm deep x 300mm square holes. Set your post about 1m into the ground for fences taller than 1.8m. Consider hiring or purchasing an auger-type post hole digger to make your job easier.
Place a timber sole plate in the bottom of each hole before inserting the posts. Alternatively, a 50mm layer of concrete can be used in place of the timber sole plate. Place the post on top of the sole plate. You'll need to temporarily brace the post to keep it upright and straight. Special post struts may be required when installing posts in sandy soil.
Completely fill the hole with a 50/50 mixture of soil and dry cement. Check the post with a spirit level and adjust the braces as needed to keep it square. Tamp the mixture down firmly to firm it up. To set the cement in the soil, add water to the ground mixture. Slope the mixture away from the post above ground to allow rain water to run off.
Then, between the two end posts, stretch two string lines to align the ones that come between. They should be parallel to the string line. As with the corner posts, dig the holes and set each post in a mixture of soil and dry cement.
The next job is to notch the posts for the rails. The top rail should be a minimum of 75mm from the top of the post’s final height.
The bottom rail is set a maximum of 175mm from the plinth, and the mid-rail centred between the two. (If you’re planning to add a cap to your completed fence, the top rail is fixed flush with the top of the post – see ‘Cappings’, Step 5). The notches are made by sawing to the depth of the rail and chiselling out the excess. They should not be deeper than the depth of the rails provide for a flush fit.
Now cut and nail on the rails on the rails using the 75 x 3.75mm galvanised bullet head nails. Joins in the rails should be butted together in the middle of a post and rail joints on posts should be staggered.
Finally, nail on the plinth at the bottom of the posts, just keeping clear of the earth. Use your string line to make sure the plinth is straight. The palings rest on top of it and if it’s not straight, your palings will be crooked.
Overlapping your palings creates a more private and appealing fence than simply butting them together. First, use the 40 x 2mm galvanised nails to secure the 150mm palings, leaving a 50mm space between each paling. Keep the palings vertical as you go, and check your spirit level frequently. Then, using the 50 x 2.8mm galvanised nails, nail the 100mm palings over the spaces so that they overlap 25mm on both sides. Drive these nails in without going through the I50mm palings. The palings can shrink without splitting as a result of this.
Saw off the tops of the palings in a straight line 200mm above the top of the upper rail. This job is obviously easier with a power saw. A wooden straightedge, such as a batten, nailed on the back of your fence along the line to be cut makes a useful guide for sawing. The posts should be cut to the same height or just below the top of the palings. Make sure you cut at an angle for water to run off and to prevent rot.
An alternative to straight cutting is capping your new fence. This will extend the life of the palings and give a more professional overall effect. In this case, your top rails must be fixed flush with the top of the post and palings flush with the top rail.
Choose an angled capping that will shed water and completely covers the exposed ends of the palings. Fix using one 75mm galvanised nail every 600mm.
To allow for normal timber shrinkage, this should be done about three months after the fence has been completed. If you used seasoned, treated radiata pine, you can stain and paint almost immediately. Finishing your fence is an excellent project for the kids. It should keep them busy for a couple of hours and earn them some extra money.
Reach out to Pro Fences Brisbane to skip this entire process and have our professional team of fencing contractors in Brisbane build it for you.
Address: 28b/135 Macquarie Street, Teneriffe QLD 4005
Phone: 0731320879
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